One of Burgundy's more reliable domaines with a comprehensive stable of holdings in the Côte de Nuits, Domaine Michel Magnien has turned in a series of home-run releases in 2023. Prior to 1993, the domaine sold off all their fruit to top-tier negociants, but upon returning to the domaine in 1993, Michel's son Frederic convinced his father to start bottling under their own label. Over the years, Frederic has continued to make his mark on the domaine's wines, and since 2015 he has eschewed all use of new oak in favor of used and clay amphorae. As Burghound explains, "Magnien has become arguably the leading specialist in Burgundy in the use of amphorae ... Others, such as Dujac, Pousse d'Or and Jean-Marie Fourrier, are experimenting with them as well, though Magnien has made them an essential part of his approach."
The results are strikingly pure, accessible wines from several of the great terroirs of the Côte de Nuits. We just secured an excellent haul of 2023s at must-see pricing, and while each of the nine cuvées on offer is its own form of Burgundy bliss, savvy collectors should zero in on a few of the highlights, lead by the BH92-95 Clos de la Roche, a "gorgeously textured and broad flavored" beauty that gives stunning voice to this hallowed site. The BH92-94 Clos St-Denis is no less compelling, "balanced, long, and classy" in its essential character. The 1ers Crus are every bit as rewarding, starting with the "lovely" Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Sentiers, earning 91-93 points and an Outstanding designation from Burghound. Finally, the domaine's home village is well-represented by the "refined, delicious and wonderfully vibrant" Morey-St-Denis.
Collectors and Burg fans have ample opportunity to load their cellars with dependable performers at every level of the hierarchy, at some of the best prices in the country, to boot.
A cooler and spicier nose reflects notes of red and dark cherry, violet and a suggestion of exotic tea. The wonderfully refined medium weight flavors are definitely finer than those of the Clos de la Roche but not as powerful before terminating in a balanced, long and classy finale. This does need to develop better depth but if given a chance, that should reasonably occur.
92-94 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound (Jan 2025)
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