Late last year, we struck up a surprise domaine-direct relationship with a fascinating Burgundy stalwart that doesn't get quite the recognition they should on this side of the Atlantic. Part formidable négociant operation with a number of impressive vineyard leases, part domaine operation with an equally impressive stable of holdings, Marchand-Tawse boasts a truly staggering range of wines that encompasses nearly every corner of the Côte d'Or. A trip through their labyrinthine cellars in the heart of Nuits-St-Georges is an exercise in itself. Despite the audacious undertaking of managing such a range, winemaker Pascal Marchand is on top of his game, and the wines routinely impress critics across the spectrum.
We went big on the range, so good was the overall quality, but the undeniable highlights start with the 2022 Beaune 1er Cru Teurons. From a 60-year-old parcel acquired from the former Domaine Maume, it's a hallmark representation of the Marchand-Tawse brand. "Stylish" and "exceptional" are just two of the superlatives that appear in rock-solid reviews from Allen Meadows and Jasper Morris, who sees 95-point potential here once the wine reaches its prime in a few years.
Another highlight was their wonderful 2022 Nuits-St-George 1er Cru Aux Murgers. It's no secret that the Burgundy market is going through the roof these days, so finding a pedigreed Côte de Nuits 1er cru for under $100 is becoming increasingly rare, especially one with rock-solid accolades from the region's three most prominent critical voices. When you consider that renditions from names like Méo-Camuzet and Sylvain Cathiard can fetch a small fortune (if you can find them), this "impressively persistent and powerful" version from Marchand-Tawse looks even more like an absolute steal for collectors to stock up on.
Speaking of collectors, don't miss a trio must-see cellar gems at the top end. The 2022 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots offers a "seductively textured, round and generous" profile, while the "very elegant and stylish" 2022 Mazoyères Chambertin Grand Cru shows 97-point potential from both Martin and Morris. The crown jewel, however, is the 2022 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru. A "magical" rendition that flirts with perfection according to Morris, this "superb" Mazis is an unequivocal cellar contender that "should age effortlessly."
Finally, the 2023 Bourgogne Cote d'Or offers the balanced, forward personality of the vintage. Marchand uses entirely destemmed fruit and very gentle extractions, resulting in "a classy, classic, entry-level gem" according to B-21 Burgundy buyer Andrew Kitz, who goes on to describe it as "pure Pinot character all the way." If you missed out on (or ran out of) the now-sold-out 2023 Bons Batons Bourgogne Rouge from Patrice Rion, this charming, textbook 2023 from Marchand-Tawse is your next go-to, as it delivers everything we're looking for in both style and price point.
It's rare that we go all in on a new direct-import producer like this, but the quality is simply undeniable, and the prices, even at the top end, are some of the sharpest you'll find in the market for the pedigree and class on offer. This an easy collection to fall in love with, so make some room in the cellar.
Destemmed, 20% new wood, now racked to tank. A lovely fresh crimson colour. Mixed red berries, including strawberry, this is unforced and very pleasing. Tannins, lighter acidity, but the fruit wins through. Drink from 2028-2033. Tasted Nov 2024.
90-91 points, Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (Jan 2025)
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