April's trip to Burgundy focused heavily on the Côte de Nuits, and we were fortunate to stumble upon a remarkable, family-run domaine in Gevrey that remains very much under the radar, despite an enviable stable and comprehensive range of bottlings. Marchand-Grillot's vine holdings include many of the best 1er Crus in Gevrey, but as with most of our favorite domaine's, their star really shines in the village level. After all, it's a real indication of commitment and expertise to make a top-notch expression at this tier, and along with superb the Morey-St-Denis, their 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin made perhaps the biggest impression on us. The domaine's several excellent village parcels comprise this bottling, many of which are bottled on their own as single-cru expressions as well, so this cuvée puts forth both marvelous fruit expression and superb terroir signature.
"...this is a quintessential Gevrey that will stretch its legs for several years and blossom into a real showstopper for savvy and patient Burgundy aficionados." - Andrew Kitz, B-21 Burgundy Buyer
Morey-St-Denis remains something of an afterthought in the wider world of Burgundy, but when you're presented with an expression like the 2023 from Marchand-Grillot, you'll take a long, serious look at what is arguably the Côte de Nuits' finest hotbed of quality and value. This 2023 does everything you'd expect from a well-crafted, exemplary village bottling.
"Eyebrows raised all around the table when we tasted it at the domaine, so we knew we were on to a real gem here. Classy and gorgeous – that about sums it up." - Andrew Kitz, B-21 Burgundy Buyer
Finally, there my be few values in Burgundy sharper than the 2023 En Bollery Coteaux Bourguignons, from a parcel with grand cru pedigree (but for an old stone wall) and Bourgogne Rouge pricing. The En Bollery plot is separated from Grand Cru Clos Vougeot by nothing but the east wall of the Clos itself, yet the wine bears the humble Coteaux designation thanks to the presence of Gamay in the vineyard and the wine. No matter, as the 2023 shows "next-level concentration, precision, and purity" that makes it "essentially every bit as good as many village crus from the Côte de Nuits, at a mere fraction of the price," as Andrew puts it.
As cellar-worthy Burgundy of exceptional quality at a fair deal is becoming more and more difficult to find, we're thrilled to be able to bring you examples like these at domaine-direct pricing.
Marchand-Grillot’s 2023 village Gevrey is a blend of sites including some of those bottled as single vineyards in the domaine’s extensive portfolio and arguably their most classic village expression. Deeply pitched aromatics are centered on dark, brambly fruit with touches of red for an element of intrigue. The hallmark Gevrey rusticity comes through in a firm mineral character on both the nose and the palate. More structured than the forward, finessed Morey-St-Denis, the 2023 Gevrey displays a confident but primary palate profile at the moment – it needs a few years to come together, but that will definitely happen. The mid-palate is definitely juicy enough to convey the concentrated black cherry and currant flavors, while the iron-tinged mineral edges offer up proper terroir signature. Structurally sound with polished but present tannins and the balanced physiological ripeness of the vintage, this is a quintessential Gevrey that will stretch its legs for several years and blossom into a real showstopper for savvy and patient Burgundy aficionados.
92 points, Andrew Kitz, B-21 Burgundy Buyer (Jun 2025)
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