The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Fontenys 1er Cru has a beautifully defined bouquet with raspberry and wild strawberry fruit and a fine underlying mineralité that blossoms in the glass. The palate is bursting with energy and tension, a pastille-like purity and fine grip with a vibrant, lightly spiced finish that lingers in the mouth. Excellent.
94 points, Neal Martin, Vinous (Jan 2026)
There is always an extra element of both depth and length when one hops up to the premier cru Fontenys in the Roty cellars each year. The 2023 version is going to be an outstanding wine when it is ready to drink, as it offers up a deep and complex bouquet of black plums, sweet dark berries, grilled meats, plenty of smokiness, a beautiful foundation of dark soil tones and a generous framing of new oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and sappy at the core, with great soil signature and grip, firm, buried tannins, fine focus and balance and a long, soil-driven and complex finish. Fine, fine juice.
94 points, John Gilman, View From The Cellar (Feb 2026)
An even, dark, purple colour. 90% new wood still leaves the faintest trace of coconut. A rich raspberry, the tannins are not too firm but announce a sense of structure. There is lower acidity in what is in effect a Clos beneath Bruno Clair’s Clos de Fonteny. The fruit pushes on well at the finish. Drink from 2032-2038. Tasted Nov 2025.
92 points, Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (Jun 2026)
This is the only wine among this group of 2023s that is reduced so be sure to give this some air if you're going to crack a bottle young. Otherwise, the round, rich and more concentrated medium-bodied flavors possess a highly attractive mouthfeel and good vibrancy on the balanced and mineral-driven, if mildly austere, finish that offers very fine depth and persistence. This is also quite good and another wine in the Roty line-up that is worth considering. *Outstanding*
92 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound (Jan 2026)
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