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B-21 Top Recommendation
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"A wine of unmistakable terroir character and class." - Andrew Kitz, B-21 Burgundy Buyer
Pouilly-Fuissé's star is on an undeniable upward trajectory in recent years, starting with the promotion of several of its top sites to 1er Cru status in 2020, a move that many saw as a harbinger of rising prices along with rising reputation. In some instances, that's been the case, but by and large we're still seeing some of the smartest buys in Burgundy emerge from the appellation's best sites, which is also drawing attention to its best producers, many of whom remained relatively unknown beyond the usual insider's circles until now.
One of those domaines in Jacques Saumaize, whom we've become big fans of in recent years as their vineyard stable and winemaking are on par with the best in the appellation. Case in point is this marvelous old-vine gem from a vineyard that just screams terroir. While it's not officially a 1er Cru (yet) Le Haut de la Roche is a spectacular piece of real estate right at the base of the Roche de Vergisson, one of the twin towering rock formations that dominate Pouilly-Fuissé's topography. The soils up here are as bare as bare gets, so the 50-year-old vines are forced to plumb deep into the limestone mother rock, and the result is a stunning expression of place. "Pure, shimmering minerality" is the calling card on the nose, while View From the Cellar's John Gilman describes a palate that's "crisp, complex and full-bodied, with a beautiful core of fruit, superb mineral undertow, zesty acids and a very elegant, vibrant, poised and seamlessly balanced finish."
If you're a seasoned fan of white Burgundy, everything mentioned above should have your attention, as the 2023 Le Haut de la Roche from Saumaize is a quintessential example of what we love about these wines, all for a price that makes it easy for anyone to get on board. |
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The most complete wine of Saumaize’s 2023s, the Le Haut de la Roche is a top-flight effort from poor, stony soils high up on the slope of Roche de Vergisson, and that terroir is evident in this elegant Pouilly-Fuisse. Pure, shimmering minerality leads the nose, very expressive yet also poised and precise. Fine citrus aromas mingle with riper notes of soft peach and apricot, and there’s no apparent wood. Intriguing complexity comes out as white geranium, lime cordial, and faints hints of spicy basil and pastry crust. The exceedingly pretty palate carries a gorgeous mineral signature on elegant weight, suave texture, and super fine acids. Floral notes of apple and lemon blossom come through, with barely ripe peach and green apple skin adding depth. A wine of unmistakable terroir character and class.
94 points, Andrew Kitz, B-21 Burgundy Buyer (Sep 2025)
The Pouilly-Fuissé “le Haut de la Roche” bottling from the Saumaize family is outstanding in 2023. This wine is made from fifty year-old vines that are planted right at the base of the Roche de Vergisson, on extremely thin topsoils before one reached the Mother Rock of pure limestone. The wine’s aromatic constellation is gorgeous, wafting from the glass in a mix of pear, golden delicious apple, almond, white lilies, citrus zest, a gentle framing of oak and an almost dusty expression of limestone minerality. On the palate the wine is crisp, complex and full-bodied, with a beautiful core of fruit, superb mineral undertow, zesty acids and a very elegant, vibrant, poised and seamlessly balanced finish. The backend lift here is lovely. This reminds me a bit of the old bottlings from André Forest, whose Les Crays single vineyard wine was my first introduction to truly great, classic Pouilly-Fuissé all the way back in the second half of the 1980s! (Drink between 2025-2050)
94 points, John Gilman, View From The Cellar (Apr 2025)
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