The Hirtzberger estate is in many ways the definitive Wachau standard bearer. After all, it was the original Franz Hirtzberger who founded the Vinea Wachau classification which now sets the standards for the region's three-tier hierarchy of Steinfeder, Federspiel, and Smaragd. Franz the second has now served as president of the organization for going on three decades, so the family practically is Wachau in a way. And that's before we even get to their unparalleled stable of vineyard sites, all of which are simply some of the best in all of Austria.
The 2024 vintage was not without its challenges, but the ever-meticulous Hirtzberger made another set of truly outstanding wines, highlighted by a double 100-point expression of the legendary Riesling Ried Singerriedl, which "shows perfect harmony" in its "incredibly vivid and bold" personality. The 2024 Gruner Veltliner Honivogl is itself another sterling rendition flirting with perfection in its "powerful, elegant, silky texture, fine fruit sweetness, [and] finesse-rich structure." Finally, don't miss the 98-point Riesling Ried Steinporz from a sheltered site set off the Danube, which produces a wine of "direction, freshness, and structure" with "lots of energy." Of course, these are just the highlights, but every wine in the roster below is a top performer in the category.
We're seriously impressed so far with what we've seen in Austria's 2024 vintage, and Hirtzberger's offerings stand unequivocally among the very elite of the campaign. However, quantities are limited, so collectors will want to take decisive action to secure these gems at the best pricing in the market.
Light greenish yellow, silver reflections. Fresh vineyard peach, nuances of dark minerality, a hint of lime and white flowers. Taut, tightly woven, bright fruit, cool style, fine acidity, citrus-salty finish, very good length, light-footed and dancing, a fine food companion.
96-98 points, Peter Moser, Falstaff (Jun 2024)
The 2023 Riesling Steinporz Smaragd, also on paragneiss, is set back from the Danube and slightly warmer than the Setzberg, protected by the 1000-Eimerberg. The vines are between 30 and 40 years old. Even with a touch of apricot kernel on the nose, Golden apricot announces ripeness. The palate is brighter and tighter than the nose suggests, with ripe lemon rippling through juicy, ripe apricot flesh. This is juiciness; this is picture-book Wachau, ripe but so contoured, chiseled and elegant, bedded not on yeast but on pure rock. Zestiness and stone are the finish. This is a triumph. Wow. (Bone-dry)
97 points, Anne Krebiehl, Vinous (Jul 2024)
Very expressive peach and white flower aromas are married to an appealing richness and a very elegant mineral acidity on the medium- to full-bodied palate. Terrific tension drives the very long, intensely stony finish, which has fantastic citrusy complexity (even blood oranges). So bright, but the acidity is relatively moderate in the riesling context. Drink or hold.
97 points, Stuart Pigott, James Suckling (Sep 2024)
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