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2023 Eric Forest Saint-Veran Terre Noire (750ml)

Chardonnay from Maconnais, Burgundy, France

2023 Eric Forest Saint-Veran Terre Noire
B-21 Top Recommendation
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His name doesn't appear much in the critical press these days, but Eric Forest quietly remains one of Pouilly-Fuissé most engaging and talented winemakers. Our Burgundy team recently paid a visit to his cellars, and they were thrilled to discover Eric and his wines in exceptional form. The range of 2023s got nods all around, but the Les Crays 1er Cru was the undisputed standout.

"One of the top three wines from our recent trip to Burgundy, and we’re thrilled to get it directly from the domaine’s cellars." - Andrew Kitz, B-21 Burgundy Buyer

The Les Crays vineyard itself boasts every feature that makes a quintessential Pouilly-Fuissé Chardonnay - southerly exposure, very poor soils of broken limestone, moderate slope, and old vines (these planted between 1930 and 1966). At the foot of the famed Roche de Vergisson, Les Crays is terroir excellence in a nutshell, and Forest's 2023 "is a head-turning expression that shows why this vineyard is a bona fide 1er cru," according to Andrew. It's a complete wine in every sense that is already starting to synch its components into a harmonious whole that will only gain in complexity and personality over the coming several years.

Further underscoring the excellence of Forest's domaine holdings are his old-vine, single-vineyard gems from Terre Noire in St-Véran and Clos des Charmes in Mâcon-Pierreclos. The former comes from a small, 100-year-old parcel on dark clay over bleached white limestone, and it's "easily the most concentrated and intense wine in Forest’s line-up," tightly wound today but with utterly compelling cellar potential for the medium to long term. The latter, by contrast, is an "upfront, charming yet precisely crafted gem ... with real style and substance that does everything it’s supposed to."

Today's Burgundy market is a wild place, and when you find a top-notch, single-vineyard expressions like these under $60, you jump at them, plain and simple.

93AK

Easily the most concentrated and intense wine in Forest’s line-up, the 2023 Terre Noire is a fascinating expression that truly captures this singular terroir in Haut Davayé, a 1ha plot of 100-year-old vines on dark clay soils, hence the vineyard name. Dig a little deeper though (60cm to be exact) and you’ll find nothing but bleached white, fractured limestone, and what results is a big, bracing, mineral wine of pure site character. The soil signature is front and center on the nose, but it leaves room for a complex interplay of deep lemon, bruised green apple, and Bosc pear. The oak is somewhat more prominent here than on Forest’s other cuvées, but it works very well as a counter to the strident minerality. The site’s old vines show through in the immensely concentrated palate, where very primary citrus and tree fruits take a backseat to the soil tones at the moment. Sappy mid-palate grip and texture lead to a surprisingly long finish inflected with wet rocks and smoky undertones. My bet is that this is nowhere near its prime form, so it should only get better as time allows all its big but disparate components to mesh and synchronize, at which point it will really be something all its own.

93 points, Andrew Kitz, B-21 Burgundy Buyer (Dec 2025)

Alcohol By Volume: 13.50%
#FRFOCH23BE
$44.98
Compare At: $49.99
60+ bottles in stock
Shipping
Estimated ship date: Thursday, July 16
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Ready for pickup: Today
In-Store Purchase
Tarpon Springs: Aisle 06 Bay 22
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