B-21 Top Recommendation Read More
His name doesn't appear much in the critical press these days, but Eric Forest quietly remains one of Pouilly-Fuissé most engaging and talented winemakers. Our Burgundy team recently paid a visit to his cellars, and they were thrilled to discover Eric and his wines in exceptional form. The range of 2023s got nods all around, but the Les Crays 1er Cru was the undisputed standout.
"One of the top three wines from our recent trip to Burgundy, and we’re thrilled to get it directly from the domaine’s cellars." - Andrew Kitz, B-21 Burgundy Buyer
The Les Crays vineyard itself boasts every feature that makes a quintessential Pouilly-Fuissé Chardonnay - southerly exposure, very poor soils of broken limestone, moderate slope, and old vines (these planted between 1930 and 1966). At the foot of the famed Roche de Vergisson, Les Crays is terroir excellence in a nutshell, and Forest's 2023 "is a head-turning expression that shows why this vineyard is a bona fide 1er cru," according to Andrew. It's a complete wine in every sense that is already starting to synch its components into a harmonious whole that will only gain in complexity and personality over the coming several years.
Further underscoring the excellence of Forest's domaine holdings are his old-vine, single-vineyard gems from Terre Noire in St-Véran and Clos des Charmes in Mâcon-Pierreclos. The former comes from a small, 100-year-old parcel on dark clay over bleached white limestone, and it's "easily the most concentrated and intense wine in Forest’s line-up," tightly wound today but with utterly compelling cellar potential for the medium to long term. The latter, by contrast, is an "upfront, charming yet precisely crafted gem ... with real style and substance that does everything it’s supposed to."
Today's Burgundy market is a wild place, and when you find a top-notch, single-vineyard expressions like these under $60, you jump at them, plain and simple. |