"Domaine Huet is, perhaps, Vouvray's most famous name ... No matter the site or the sweetness level, there is an ethereal and elegant quality to these wines that defies scientific analysis." - Vinous
The above quote from Rebecca Gibb of Vinous sums up almost everything you need to know about the magnificent wines of Domaine Huet. Sure, we could also mention that they have been a biodynamic pioneer since 1993, or that their wines age as well as almost any wines in the world, red or white. But at the end of the day, it's the singular character and class of the juice in the bottle that sets them apart from their contemporaries.
This latest quartet of releases from 2023 shows why the domaine is a force to be reckoned with, not only in Vouvray, but anywhere in the Loire. With more glowing acclaim to add to their already full resumé, Huet is at the pinnacle once again. No matter where you look in the range, these are easily some of the smartest buys in collectible white wine, as evidenced by the JS96 Le Mont Sec, "one of the great dry white wines of the Loire." You could also go in for the "pure, refined, seamless style" of the Le Haut-Lieu Sec or the "deep, complex, and beautifully focused" Clos du Bourg Sec, and have yourself a trio of thrilling cellar treasures that will cruise for decades. Finally, the domaine's mastery of the sweeter styles is on full display in the Le Mont Demi-Sec, which View From the Cellar's John Gilman declares is "destined to ultimately be ranked as one of the finest wines to be found anywhere along the Loire River in this vintage!"
Our parcel comes in at razor-sharp pricing that puts the already spectacular cellar appeal of these gems in even brighter light, so avid Loire enthusiasts or any collector of world-class, reference-point wines can take their collections up a notch or two.
There is no Demi-Sec from the Le Haut Lieu vineyard in 2023, but the Le Mont version seems destined to ultimately be ranked as one of the finest wines to be found anywhere along the Loire River in this vintage! The bouquet is pure, precise and already beautifully complex, wafting from the glass in a mix of sweet quince, apple, incipient notes of mirabelle, chalky minerality, a gentle touch of lanolin, bee pollen, orange peel and a lovely floral topnote of white lilies. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and supremely elegant in personality, with a great core of fruit, lovely acids and grip, fine focus and a long, seamlessly balanced and very complex finish. I love the elegant personality of this wine, which closes with superb lift and backend energy. There is an old school aspect to this wine that is not found anymore in summers with more heat and drought, which seems to be the norm seven years out of ten these days in our age of global warming. This is a stunning, throwback vintage of Le Mont Demi-Sec!
95 points, John Gilman, View From The Cellar
The 2023 Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Mont boasts a residual sweetness (20g/l) that brings a sense of tenderness and amplitude to a terroir that's big on precision and tension. The flint component in the soil and the natural freshness of the 2023 vintage provide persistence and momentum. Pure and tender, there’s a distinctive spearmint-like cooling sensation on the long finish.
94 points, Rebecca Gibb, Vinous (Jul 2024)
For a demi-sec, this leans toward the dry, savory end of the spectrum. There are a lot of layers and substance to this, with a savory thread of green herbs and bitter white tea weaving through elderflower, quince and apple flavors, while gentle tannins provide a solid frame. Cool river stone and pink peppercorn notes line the finish, encased in smoke and salt, with length and a lot of depth. The toasty cedar notes will integrate with more time in bottle. Drink now through 2037. 740 cases made.
93 points, Kristen Bieler, Wine Spectator (Nov 2024)
This off-dry Vouvray has terrific depth and a lovely creaminess that’s hard to resist, but it’s tightly wound and needs some time for the aromas to unfurl. With some aeration, red apple and honeysuckle notes emerge. Long, very clean finish that’s pretty dry thanks to the bright acidity. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.
93 points, Stuart Pigott, James Suckling (Oct 2024)