"Alongside Jean-Marc Vincent, [Moreau] is leading the way for the appellation that is still undervalued by cognoscenti." - Neal Martin, Vinous
Despite its relative secrecy in the greater Burgundy quality hierarchy, Santenay is one of the most popular appellations among B-21's clientele at the moment, with producers like Jessiaume finding big audiences for their excellent class and character and very affordable prices. David Moreau is another name that we've long turned to for reference-point Santenay. With exceptional old-vine holdings in virtually all of the most important 1er Cru vineyards, Moreau is a go-to name for truly savvy insiders.
Having done much of his formative training at two of Burgundy's most iconic names (none other than Hubert Lamy and DRC), Moreau has built a remarkable skillset that allows him to excel in both the vineyard and the winery, and it shows in this pair of rock-solid 2023 reds that we just secured at excellent pricing. The "superb" 2023 Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau, from a southeast-facing slope of iron-rich limestone and arguably Santenay's finest cru, is "lovely, very pure and generous" according to Martin. The "bright and effervescent" 2023 Santenay 1er Cru Beaurepaire shows the more ethereal side of the appellation, coming from high on the slope of the cru at a very steep gradient. "It is quite airy in style," notes Martin, "but there is real fruit concentration here."
As pedigreed, artisanal wines of true terroir become more and more expensive in Burgundy, it's nice to know that there are places (Santenay) and people (Moreau) that can be counted on to deliver everything a Burgundy lover is looking for without breaking the bank into a million pieces.
The 2023 Santenay Clos Rousseau 1er Cru has up to 25% whole cluster. It boasts a lovely, very pure and generous bouquet with red cherry, raspberry and wet limestone scents, perhaps the best of Moreau's Santenay cuvées. The palate is medium-bodied with juicy red berry fruit and a little more rondeur in the mouth. It concludes with a caressing, lightly spiced finish. Superb.
91-93 points, Neal Martin, Vinous (Jan 2025)
Dense purple, one of the darker colours despite 20-25% whole bunch. No millerandage for once. The bouquet is not immediately forthcoming, but more in red fruit, with a fine sweet raspberry with excellent balance right across the palate. Not too concentrated but fine. Drink from 2028-2032.
90-92 points, Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (Jan 2025)
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