One of the more impressive boutique operations in Sonoma County today has nothing at all to do with Pinot Noir. Winemaker Jesse Katz of Aperture Cellars is emerging as a bona fide master of Bordeaux varietals in the appellation, and his track record is one of unbroken success, garnering acclaim from across the critical spectrum on an annual basis. The 2023s are arguably Katz's finest efforts yet, clearly evident in the double WA96+ 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon.
"...the 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon is everything you could want from a modern Sonoma County Cabernet ... This is a screaming value." - Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Blended from almost all of the estate's prized parcels in Alexander Valley and Healdsburg, it's a profoundly luxurious expression that manages to maintain superb balance and weightless precision thanks to the expert touch of the winemaking team. If you're looking for a California Cabernet with impeccable, cellar-worthy pedigree and a drinking window that will span the better part of two decades, look no further.
I tasted the 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon in October, not long after it was bottled in August. Grapes were harvested October 5 through November 3. It was blended with 3% Malbec, 1% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot and matured for 18 months in 55% new French oak barrels plus 10% concrete—a new aging vessel Aperture has started experimenting with. It has slowly unfurling scents of cassis, black cherry, dark chocolate, cast iron and floral hints. The full-bodied palate is impressively concentrated without over-ripeness, and its flavors are rich yet minerally. It has an haut couture frame of powdery tannins and refreshing acidity and a very long, elegant finish. It should be very long lived in the cellar.
96+ points, Erin Brooks, Wine Advocate (Oct 2025)
The 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon is a deep, youthful, coating red color and reveals aromas of Amarena cherries and pure fresh flowers. It has all the components of Aperture’s top wines, with a very appealing, accessible tone. Fresh lavender and pretty blue fruit shine through, alongside 55% new oak. Ripe and long on the palate, it has a chocolaty, refined, velvety texture and a clean finish. Drink 2026-2040.
95 points, Audrey Frick, Jeb Dunnuck (Jun 2026)
Aromas of plums, blackberries, marionberries and red soil. Full-bodied and structured yet approachable, with abundant yet integrated tannins and a lot of earthy minerality in the finish. Drink or hold.
95 points, Courtney Humiston, James Suckling (May 2026)
Opaque garnet in the glass, the 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon is everything you could want from a modern Sonoma County Cabernet. Varietal signatures abound, with black olive, tomato leaf, sage and gravel underscoring a core of sweet red/blue berry preserves, but this is another wine that needs several years of time to shed some of its serious tannic heft. A creamy mid-palate provides a beautiful canvas for the freshness of the vintage to shine. This is a screaming value at $75.
94 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous (Jan 2026)
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