B-21 Top Recommendation
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We've been eyeing Domaine Jean Collet for a while as a new addition to our direct-import stable, and now we have them. This family-run domaine, now under the direction of the very talented Romain Collet, is a bastion of classically styled Chablis, even in a ripe vintage like 2022. Even better, pricing remains more than reasonable, as is quite evident in this lovely trio of 2022s on offer today.
Leading off is the overachieving 1er Cru Montmains. Collet's five plots were all planted between 1970 and 1985 and all are within the original Montmains lieu-dit on rocky, shallow soils of Kimmeridgian limestone. There is virtually no clay at all in these plots, so the style of the wine is "Crisp, cool and precise ... a fine example of Montmains," according to Decanter, made all the more so by the stainless steel vinification and aging. However, the warm vintage certainly adds a layer of depth that offers perfect counter-point to the fine minerality and steely energy of the Montmains cru.
Both Jasper Morris and Allen Meadows found great favor in the intensity and density of the 1er Cru Les Forêts, from a high-density planting of 8,000 vines/ha. Vinification and aging in concrete egg give the 2022 exceptional balance, allowing just enough 2022 ripeness to shine while not going overboard. With 93-point potential per Morris, it's a sharp choice for fans of classic Chablis with a touch of modern flair.
Finally, the 94-point Valmur from a plot planted in 1972 offers "concentrated flavors that possess both impressive power and intensity before terminating in a compact, serious, youthfully austere and sneaky long finish" as noted by Allen Meadows of Burghound. With "plenty of energy" and the typical Valmur structure, the 2022 will cruise in the cellar for several years before reaching its apogee.
As even Chablis prices have begun to jump in recent years, sharp collectors should be taking a good look at domaine-direct offers like this to maximize their white Burgundy buck, especially if the put a premium on classic winemaking and terroir expression. | 
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