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B-21 Top Recommendation
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The Hirtzberger estate is in many ways the definitive Wachau standard bearer. After all, it was the original Franz Hirtzberger who founded the Vinea Wachau classification which now sets the standards for the region's three-tier hierarchy of Steinfeder, Federspiel, and Smaragd. Franz the second has now served as president of the organization for going on three decades, so the family practically is Wachau in a way. And that's before we even get to their unparalleled stable of vineyard sites, all of which are simply some of the best in all of Austria.
The 2024 vintage was not without its challenges, but the ever-meticulous Hirtzberger made another set of truly outstanding wines, highlighted by a double 100-point expression of the legendary Riesling Ried Singerriedl, which "shows perfect harmony" in its "incredibly vivid and bold" personality. The 2024 Gruner Veltliner Honivogl is itself another sterling rendition flirting with perfection in its "powerful, elegant, silky texture, fine fruit sweetness, [and] finesse-rich structure." Finally, don't miss the 98-point Riesling Ried Steinporz from a sheltered site set off the Danube, which produces a wine of "direction, freshness, and structure" with "lots of energy." Of course, these are just the highlights, but every wine in the roster below is a top performer in the category.
We're seriously impressed so far with what we've seen in Austria's 2024 vintage, and Hirtzberger's offerings stand unequivocally among the very elite of the campaign. However, quantities are limited, so collectors will want to take decisive action to secure these gems at the best pricing in the market. |
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Light yellow-green, silver reflections. Soft notes of yellow tropical fruit, hints of saffron and mango, white flowers in the background. Full-bodied, complex, white apple, finesse-rich acidity, mineral and salty finish, lemony on the back palate, delicate style, already well developed.
96-98 points, Peter Moser, Falstaff (Jul 2023)
In its unspectacular way this is a spectacularly successful 2022 Wachau dry riesling. Such a wealth of citrus and stone fruit aromas with so many shades from pale yellow to orange. Just beginning to reveal its full riches! Fabulous balance of concentrated and finely nuanced fruit with racy acidity and all of this is wrapped in a precisely judged creaminess. Very long, structured finish. Drink or hold.
96 points, Stuart Pigott, James Suckling (Sep 2023)
There's a warm, voluptuous feel to the concentrated flavors of apricot and bitter peach skin in this formidable, deftly rendered version. Weighty yet vivid, with razor-sharp acidity and white grapefruit pithiness adding bitterness, while ground ginger and warm spice notes add to the complexity. Cooling wet stone minerality washes over the long and ethereal finish. Drink now through 2032. 30 cases imported.
94 points, Kristen Bieler, Wine Spectator (Sep 2024)
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