The past few vintages have shown that Nuits reference-point Henri Gouges is back on top in a big way. Among the domaine's superb stable of vineyards, their monopole Clos des Porrets St-Georges is always a sharp choice among savvy insiders, and the 2023 does not disappoint.
"One of the most striking wines of the appellation." - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy
Within the larger Porrets St-Georges 1er Cru, Gouges' monopole Clos is a parcel of heavy gravel and scree soils over dense, pink limestone bedrock. The site produces intensely aromatic wines of exotic profile, with finely structured backbones that take more than a few years to reveal their pinnacle expressions. The 2022 is "at once ripe yet cool" according to Meadows, "with impressive persistence" that carries the hallmark character of the 2022 vintage in the Côte de Nuits. "Lush, juicy and seductive" per Wine Spectator's 95-point review, the 2022 Porrets shows "solid structure, with fine promise for its evolution." The 2022 Burgundy vintage remains a treasure trove of unbeatable collectible pedigree, and Gouges' Clos des Porrets proves you don't have to spend a mint to get your hands on a true cellar all-star.
Lush, juicy and seductive, this red features blackberry, black currant, blueberry, iron and earth aromas and flavors. Quickly tightens up courtesy of the solid structure, with fine promise for its evolution. Offers terrific balance and length. Best from 2029 through 2047. 400 cases imported.
95 points, Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator (Jul 2025)
The 2022 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos des Porrets-Saint-Georges 1er Cru had been racked the previous week, but it was essentially the final wine I tasted as it was just about to be bottled. It has a stricter and more backward bouquet than the Chênes Carteaux: blackberry and wild strawberry fruit, the 20% new oak neatly folded in. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm tannins, leaning more towards black fruit laced with tar and tobacco. Quite Morey-like towards the finish with impressive persistence. Give this two or three years in bottle to shave the edges. Very fine.
92-94 points, Neal Martin, Vinous (Jan 2024)
Racked, to bottle in December. 35 hl/ha. A darker purple, just a little oak showing on the nose alongside the dark raspberry fruit. The grain of tannin is very good, and ideally integrated, with just the right acidity as well. Tasted Nov 2023.
91-94 points, Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (Jan 2024)
This manages to be at once ripe yet cool with its layered combination of black cherry, plum and just turned earth and humus nuances. There is notably better density and volume to the bigger-bodied flavors that coat the palate with dry extract on the firm, moderately austere and sneaky long finish. This by contrast is going to need at least a few years of keeping first.
90-92 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound (Jan 2024)