B-21 Top Recommendation
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"... the most celebrated domaine in the appellation of Montlouis-sur-Loire." - Rebecca Gibb, Vinous
Once an eager upstart in a largely unheard-of Loire appellation, François Chidaine now enjoys quasi-cult status among Loire enthusiasts, and for good reason. His early adoption of organic and biodynamic farming, combined with incredible old-vine plots of Chenin, have resulted in wines that are "impeccably balanced, textured, and layered" and can compete on every level with those of the more famed appellations of Vouvray and Savennières. Thirty years in, Chidaine is fully dialed in on his viticulture, having fully abandoned plowing and tilling, which now allows his singular vineyards to express themselves fully in the wines.
Today's pair of 2022 standouts is emblematic of Chidaine's style and masterful touch with the Chenin varietal, as well as the spectacular terroirs that make up his portfolio. The double 93-point Clos du Breuil, sourced from 40- to 80-year-old vines on clay and flinty silex over a chalk bedrock, is classically mineral-driven, "a sophisticated dry Chenin – pure yet precise, with the influence of flint playing its part." The WS93 Les Choisilles, named for a particular type of black flint that permeates the three plots, shows somewhat riper, rounder edges to its fruit, while still maintaining "wonderful balance and elegance, with the lightness of texture that Chenin achieves in Montlouis," as described by Decanter.
Like all great Chenins, Chidaine's wines are made for the cellar and will certainly benefit from patience, but if you're the impatient type, you'll still be richly rewarded by popping a cork today. If anything, it'll show you just how much you have to look forward to as you let the rest of the bottles in your cellar reach their full potential. | 
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