Gautier Thevenet’s Cuvée Emilian Gillet offers a fascinating counterpoint to his Cuvée E.J. Thevenet, and it all starts with the soils. Whereas the latter is sourced from his vines on deep clay and marl, the 2022 Emilian Gillet hails from vines planted on an outcropping of white marl and limestone, and the difference is immediately evident. The E.J. Thevenet is marked by its density and depth, while the Emilian Gillet is a picture-perfect example of limestone-grown Chardonnay. Initially reticent like its stablemate, with some air it starts to shine with a beautifully delineated bouquet marked by vigorous chalky aromatics and tart tree fruits. Lemon pith makes an appearance, with pear skin, grated ginger, and high-toned floral notes that bring nuance to the firm minerality underneath it all. The palate, while initially quite racy, gains weight with a bit of air, lending a subtle, sweet edge to the orchard fruits and elderflower flavors. Again, limestone minerality provides the foundation for a long, persistent finish that suggests that, like the E.J. Thevenet, this too will age exceptionally well. The Cuvée Emilian Gillet flies under the radar at Bongran, but it’s every bit as compelling as the domaine’s other wines, in its own particular fashion, and well worth adding to the cellar.
92 points, Andrew Kitz, B-21 Burgundy Buyer (Mar 2025)
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