William Waterkeyn at Jessiaume has set aside five barrels of Gravières from his oldest vines (80-years-old) to produce this super-cuvée. The winemaking is the same, except there is slightly more new wood (two barrels out of five). The fruit is deep and dark, with notes of cassis and mulberry and hints of leather, bay leaf, wood smoke and spice from the oak. The full body is amply supported by the firm, slightly rugged tannins and surprising freshness to draw this to a persistent finish. Age this for five years before opening; it should last at least a further 20.
96 points, Charles Curtis, Decanter (Nov 2023)
Very fine and super-elegant, this magnificent Santenay 1er Cru has underplayed structure and concentration. Bold yet soft tannins fill the medium- to full-bodied palate. Very long, dark finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.
95 points, Stuart Pigott, James Suckling (Jul 2024)
A proportion, about a third, of the oldest vines (90ish) are reserved for this cuvée, though some are also kept for the regular. The colour is darker, and the bouquet more rugged, less sensual. No criticism intended, this is designed as a grand vin de garde. There is a much more substantial structure, slightly more acidity as well as tannins, with a wealth of luxurious bit not over opulent fruit in between. Impressive. Drink from 2030-2036.
91-94 points, Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (Jun 2023)
The 2022 Santenay Les Gravières Numerus Clausus 1er Cru is ostensibly a Vieilles Vignes, courtesy of almost 90-year-old vines. It has a precise bouquet of black cherries and blueberry fruit, the most floral of Jessiaume's cuvées. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe black fruit, the one-third new oak neatly integrated, silky smooth and very harmonious towards the finish. Very seductive.
91-93 points, Neal Martin, Vinous (Jan 2024
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