William Waterkeyn at Jessiaume has set aside five barrels of Gravières from his oldest vines (80-years-old) to produce this super-cuvée. The winemaking is the same, except there is slightly more new wood (two barrels out of five). The fruit is deep and dark, with notes of cassis and mulberry and hints of leather, bay leaf, wood smoke and spice from the oak. The full body is amply supported by the firm, slightly rugged tannins and surprising freshness to draw this to a persistent finish. Age this for five years before opening; it should last at least a further 20.
96 points, Charles Curtis, Decanter (Nov 2023)
A proportion, about a third, of the oldest vines (90ish) are reserved for this cuvée, though some are also kept for the regular. The colour is darker, and the bouquet more rugged, less sensual. No criticism intended, this is designed as a grand vin de garde. There is a much more substantial structure, slightly more acidity as well as tannins, with a wealth of luxurious bit not over opulent fruit in between. Impressive. Drink from 2030-2036.
91-94 points, Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (Jun 2023)