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B-21 Top Recommendation
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Producing a range of “well-made and well-priced cuvees” according to Vinous critic Neal Martin, these top scoring Red Burgundy selections from Domaine Jessiaume deliver outstanding value among the region’s ever rising prices, an age worthy array from an under the radar appellation at best on the market pricing for savvy collectors to stock the cellar.
Established at the entrance of the tiny village of Santenay in 1850, Domaine Jessiaume crafts its small production Burgundy wines ranging from village level to 1er Cru from 15 hectares of organically farmed vineyards under the ownership of French researcher Dr. Jean-Francois Le Bigot since 2020, employing a low intervention approach including fermenting the grapes with indigenous yeasts and limiting the use of new French oak to preserve the freshness of the fruit. Sourced from a two-hectare parcel in the La Cassiere lieu-dit, the refined 94 pt. 2022 Domaine Jessiaume Santenay La Cassiere is a terrific introduction to the portfolio, “an elegant style of Santenay” according to Burgundy expert Jasper Morris offering fresh aromatic red fruit with silky tannins on a long and refined finish and earning the #4 spot on Decanter’s Top 10 Red Burgundy Values of 2022. From Santenay’s top 1er Cru and named for its unique gravelly soils, Jasper Morris describes the flagship 94 pt. 2022 Domaine Jessiaume Santenay Les Gravieres 1er Cru as “busting with energy without sacrificing finesse,” its rich, spiced fruit layered with lush tannins and bright acidity on “an impeccable finish.” Hand selecting about a third of the best fruit from the estate’s nearly 90 year old vines, winemaker William Waterkeyn aged the seductive 96 pt. 2022 Domaine Jessiaume Santenay Les Gravieres Numerus Clausus 1er Cru in 40% new French oak, yielding “a very refined and super elegant” 1er Cru according to James Suckling with substantial structure to evolve over several decades. Produced in “a wonderful and classically styled, old school vintage” according to Alain Meadows of Burghound, the fresh and silky 93 pt. 2021 Domaine Jessiaume Beaune Les Cents Vignes 1er Cru comes from the estate’s 1.16 hectare parcel in Les Cent Vignes or the “Hundred Vines” 1er Cru planted with Pinot Noir vines averaging 60 years of age, revealing a “powerful” and “quite delicious” 1er Cru according to Vinous critic Neal Martin, naming it his pick of the vintage and summing it up as “superb.”
Described by Inside Burgundy’s Jasper Morris as “wines of significant refinement,” these Domaine Jessiaume selections deliver significant value as well, offering Burgundy lovers and collectors a rare opportunity to stock up by the case at a price that doesn’t break the bank. |
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William Waterkeyn at Jessiaume has set aside five barrels of Gravières from his oldest vines (80-years-old) to produce this super-cuvée. The winemaking is the same, except there is slightly more new wood (two barrels out of five). The fruit is deep and dark, with notes of cassis and mulberry and hints of leather, bay leaf, wood smoke and spice from the oak. The full body is amply supported by the firm, slightly rugged tannins and surprising freshness to draw this to a persistent finish. Age this for five years before opening; it should last at least a further 20.
96 points, Charles Curtis, Decanter (Nov 2023)
Very fine and super-elegant, this magnificent Santenay 1er Cru has underplayed structure and concentration. Bold yet soft tannins fill the medium- to full-bodied palate. Very long, dark finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.
95 points, Stuart Pigott, James Suckling (Jul 2024)
A proportion, about a third, of the oldest vines (90ish) are reserved for this cuvée, though some are also kept for the regular. The colour is darker, and the bouquet more rugged, less sensual. No criticism intended, this is designed as a grand vin de garde. There is a much more substantial structure, slightly more acidity as well as tannins, with a wealth of luxurious bit not over opulent fruit in between. Impressive. Drink from 2030-2036.
91-94 points, Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (Jun 2023)
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