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Crafted by pioneering Washington state vintner Charles Smith, the appealing 90 pt. 2021 Substance Pinot Noir reveals spiced, intense red fruit with bright acidity and a smooth, satin texture, a unique and easy drinking Columbia Valley Pinot Noir from a Wine Enthusiast Winemaker of the Year that’s bargain priced for everyday enjoyment.
Known as a freewheeling rock and roller with a savvy business sense, Charles Smith is a legend of the Washington wine scene with over two decades in the region, selling his first single varietal wines out of the back of his Astro van and creating the Wines of Substance series in 2015 to produce a range of meticulously crafted, value-driven wines. Based in a state known for Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, Smith and winemaker Brennon Leighton were undeterred by Washington’s underwhelming reputation for growing Pinot Noir, their search for prime Pinot terroir leading to a cooler site along the Columbia River within the Royal Slope AVA that Smith named the Golden West Vineyard, located between the Wahluke Slope and Ancient Lakes AVAs in northern Columbia Valley. First contracting to plant 35 acres and now with over 373 acres (the state’s largest planting of Pinot Noir), Smith sourced 85% of the grapes for the 2021 Substance Pinot from the sustainably farmed Golden West, its location at 1,600 feet above sea level overlooking the Columbia River at the same latitude as Burgundy’s Pommard in a mix of limestone, volcanic and sandy soils, and 15% from the Evergreen Vineyard, a cooler site along a stretch of steep cliffs above the Columbia River that adds minerality and balanced acidity. Produced in a warm Columbia Valley vintage with an extended ripening season that enhanced flavor and concentration, the fresh and juicy 2021 Substance Pinot Noir was fermented with native yeasts before aging for 10 months on the lees in 5% new French oak, yielding a flavorful Pinot with earthy cherry flavors and lively minerality described as “incredibly charming” by Jeb Dunnuck and summed up as “very easy to like” by Eric Guido of Vinous.
Describing the Golden West planting as his “legacy project” to the Wine Spectator’s Tim Fish, Smith declared “I want to be known as the guy who brought Pinot to Washington state,” his impressive 90 pt. 2021 Substance Pinot Noir leading the way, a delicious, well-crafted Pinot affordably priced to enjoy often from a maverick of Washington wine. |