The 2021 Riesling Hallgartener Hendelberg Erste Lage, from slate and schist soils, comes with a flinty creaminess that speaks as much of reduction as it speaks of yeast. Slowly, hints of lemon appear. The palate is vivid, incredibly buffered, beautifully resonant, alive and bright with lemon. Citrus sprays but bounces from yeast, from extract. The 2021 is superb, impressive, profound, absolutely focused and delicious, yet so resonant and rich. Like sounding a gong whose sound rings, and rings and rings. It is very elegant, with beautiful green apples on the finish. (Bone-dry)
94 points, Anne Krebiehl, Vinous (Dec 2023)
As I noted in the past, Peter-Bernhard Kühn’s vines in the Hendelberg section of the Hallgarten are more than fifty years of age, so this is a premier cru bottling that clearly approaches the quality of Grosses Gewächs because of its old vines. The 2021 Hendelberg comes in at an even twelve percent octane and delivers a beautiful bouquet of apple, tart orange, a complex base of soil, citrus zest, elder flowers and just a hint of menthol in the upper register. On the palate the wine is vibrant, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a lovely core of fruit, excellent soil undertow, fine balance and a long, classy finish. Like many of the 2021ers from the estate, this is a tad tight out of the blocks and will drink with more generosity with a bit of bottle age. It is an excellent wine!
93 points, John Gilman, View From the Cellar
The 2021 Hallgartener Hendelberg Riesling trocken 1G opens with a fascinatingly pure and elegant, intense and herbal bouquet with notes of sage, African mint and crushed stones (phyllite slate). Pure, lush and savory in the palate, this is a vibrantly fresh, citric and well-concentrated dry Riesling with fine tannins and a structured, still firm and astringent finish. It needs time and aeration. 12% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in September 2023.
92 points, Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate (Dec 2023)