Andrea Mufatto and Gerardo Michelini are fashioning some of the brightest boutique gems in the Argentine wine scene, and since they branched out to Spain's Bierzo region a few years back, they've made quite the mark there too, as evidenced by a mountain of consistent, glowing acclaim from Wine Advocate's Luis Gutierrez, as well as 2024 Winemaker of the Year honors from Tim Atkin, MW.
This set of spectacular new releases showcases their incredible touch with the native Mencia varietal, putting them on par with the region's most notable luminaries, like Raúl Pérez and Descendientes de Jose Palacios. The entry-level 2022 En El Camino is the perfect introduction to this must-know producer, a WA92+ charmer that offers a classic Mencia marriage of dark red fruit, stony slate minerality, and bright structural freshness, each of its 50-year-old vineyard components playing its best-suited role in the finished blend. Stepping up to the single-vineyard wines, the 2021 A Merced is easily one of the best hidden-gem collectibles in Spanish wine. The El Canto vineyard's northerly exporsure, slate/quartz soils, and 80-year-old vines endow the 2021 with an unmistakable terroir signature. As Gutierrez describes it, "It's a little earthy but also floral and elegant, combining that wild side that seems to be inherent to this place," praise which garnered 95 points, all at a sub-$30 price tag. Finally, the micro-production 2021 Encrucijada comes from the 80-year-old Alto de Valdecañada site, notching 97 points from Gutierrez, who dubs it "fresh, tightly wound, very tasty and fine, with elegant tannins. It has to be the most elegant and balanced vintage of Encrucijada so far."
We're confident in saying this is one of the most intriguing, under-the-radar projects in Spain right now, and these three must-try showstoppers demonstrate the range and precision that Michelini i Mufatto bring to the table. If you're looking for a rising star that still offers tremendous bang for the buck, you've found it in this trio of singular Spanish standouts.
All of the wines from 2021 have considerably less alcohol than the counterparts from 2020, reflecting the much cooler condition of the year. The 2021 Encrucijada has a moderate 12% alcohol and retained very good acidity. It's perfumed and elegant; the plants are happier after being recovered from being abandoned, and the cool vintage lifted the wine up. It's fresh, tightly wound, very tasty and fine, with elegant tannins. It has to be the most elegant and balanced vintage of Encrucijada so far. 1,700 bottles were filled in October 2022.
97 points, Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate (Aug 2023)
