The 2021 Grüner Veltliner Käferberg, picked in a sheltered site of marl, sand and gravel on harder bedrock of amphibolite, opens with the most subtle flinty reduction. It spent a year in large barrel on gross lees and was then transferred into stainless steel on fine lees, to be bottled when bright. This is marked by miso-like yeastiness. The palate is a picture of savory depth—slender, refined and defined. This is united in immense saltiness and white pepper tones, all enhanced by zesty lemon. It is unusual that such a mellow wine should hold such a fine, fresh and vivid core. The longer you savor, the more complexity appears—not an obvious wine, but all the necessary components are here. This finishes with exquisite length. (Bone-dry)
94 points, Anne Krebiehl, Vinous (Feb 2024)
Some initial funk here with smoked almonds, yellow plums and grilled herbs on the nose, followed by spicy ginseng. It’s full-bodied and full of flavor, compact and phenolic, with plenty of bite on a long, spicy finish. From biodynamically grown grapes with Respekt certification. Drink or hold.
94 points, Claire Nesbitt, James Suckling (Sep 2023)
Loimer's 2021 Ried Käferberg 1ÖTW Grüner Veltliner shows an elegant, herbal-spicy and overall restrained nose. On the palate, this cru has a yeasty texture with fine spice and mineral freshness. There are fine bitter notes on the finish, which is intense but structurally grippy and not very long. 13.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at Schloss Grafenegg, September 2023.
92 points, Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate (May 2024)
This finely-meshed and medium- to full-bodied white is elegant and entices with its subtle floral- and spice-laced nose. The palate is velvety, with prominent acidity, offering an expanding range of green melon, blanched almond, dried white cherry and accents of fleur de sel and singed orange peel.
92 points, Aleks Zecevic, Wine Enthusiast (Sep 2024)
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