The Côte des Blancs seems to get the majority of attention in Champagne's Grand Cru sphere, but you're short-changing yourself in a big way if you're not famiiiar with Verzenay, a Pinot Noir-centric village in the northeast side of the Montagne de Reims. And in Verzenay, one of the undisputed names to know is Michel Arnould. Now run by Michel's son Patrick, his son-in-law Thierry, and grandson Thomas, this is a true family operation that does everything with an eye to the future, in an innovative style that stays pure and true to their Verzenay roots. Their deep range is full of must-try gems, from the entry level to the coveted collectibles.
Leading off the range, the NV Observation Brut is based on the fabulous 2022 vintage, with its 85% Pinot Noir base shining through in wonderful clarity. It's bright and effusive, with a firm backbone and vivid ripeness, loaded with grand cru pedigree for an absolute steal. Vinification takes place mostly in stainless steel, so the purity of fruit and terroir are front and center, and the wine's precise construction allows all the elements to meld harmoniously. Most importantly, the bang for the buck here is nearly unbeatable. With quality and class that are well-suited for special occasions, you'll also never feel bad about popping the cork and enjoying a bottle whenever you feel like it.
We first introduced you to the domaine last year with the 2019 Heuristique Brut, and the 2020 Heuristique Brut is once again one of the stars of the show. A 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir from Verzenay and contracted Chardonnay from Le Mesnil, it shows the wide-ranging skill set and top-notch vineyard pedigree that goes into these wines. The 2020 Heuristique is "a wine that pulls you in many directions at once" as B-21's Champagne buyer Andrew Kitz describes it, the Chardonnay providing almost endlessly bright, charming aromatics and flavors and the Pinot Noir offering luxurious weight and a robust foundation. Despite the weight of the Pinot component, "this 2020 is all energy, sizzle, and balance" on the palate with vivid, clear terroir character all the way.
As if the Heuristique didn't show enough of the domaine's penchant for great Chardonnay, the 2020 Anastrophe Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs is an anomaly for Verzenay, but it's by no means an afterthought. Sourced from the Les Potences and Les Corette plots, it's "quite a singular expression of Blanc des Blancs that could come from nowhere else but Verzenay." With quintessential Chardonnay purity and "equally vivid and racy texture and structure, with just a hint of creamy depth in the middle," the Anastrophe offers an outside-the-box yet intimately familiar expression that any Champagne aficionado can appreciate.
Finally, we were fortunate to score a small allocation of the domaine's tête de cuvée 2019 Memoire de Vignes Extra Brut Blanc de Noirs. At just one press load, it's almost certainly the smallest production Champagne we carry, made from the domaine's three oldest plots. "This is a powerful, dark-fruited Champagne of pure Pinot Noir heart and soul," declares Andrew, "with exceptional levels of concentration tied to pristine balance." For fans of vintage Krug, this is right up your alley at one-quarter the price, but don't hesitate because our allocation is miniscule, and we won't get more until next year.
Verzenay Blanc de Blancs? You bet. We know how well Arnould succeeds with Chardonnay in Pinot Noir’s backyard by the 50/50 Heuristique blend, and that becomes all the more apparent in this excellent expression. The 2020 vintage’s tightrope balance and precision are on full display all throughout. Unlike the Heuristique, in which the Chardonnay is sourced from Mesnil, the Anastrophe is all domaine fruit from the Les Potences and Les Corettes plots in Verzenay. The nose is all vivid, bright, fleshy citrus of almost all colors, with compact lemon, blood orange, and tangerine accented by more ethereal notes of pink grapefruit. There’s very little indication of the wine’s 20% barrel fermentation, but for a faint touch of autolysis in the background that only adds depth. The palate is equally vivid and racy in texture and structure, with just a hint of creamy depth in the middle, showing the wine’s five years on the lees. The citrus fruit of the Chardonnay is marvelously pure, along with the underlying minerality of these two old-vine plots. Lifted floral flavors carry the finish out on a lengthy high note. There is real poise and precision here, and the wine’s best days are definitely down the road, but this is already quite a singular expression of Blanc des Blancs that could come from nowhere else but Verzenay.
93-94 points, Andrew Kitz, B-21 Champagne Buyer (Mar 2026)
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