An impressive, limited production CDP lauded by critics and coveted by Rhone enthusiasts, the richly textured 97 pt. 2020 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Les Hauts Lieux reveals powerful, mineral-tinged aromas and fresh layered fruit matched by fine acidity, its firm, muscular tannins built to evolve over the next decade - simply a brilliant Chateauneuf du Pape that collectors will want to reserve a spot for in their cellars.
Located at the northeastern corner of the Chateauneuf du Pape AOC, Domaine de la Vieille Julienne has been owned by the Daumen family since 1905, its highly rated Southern Rhone blends crafted by talented fifth generation winemaker Jean-Paul Daumen for the last three decades. One of the first estates in the region to convert to biodynamic practices under Jean-Paul, the domain farms 15 hectares in the Chateauneuf du Pape AOC, a single contiguous north-facing vineyard sheltered from the extreme heat and planted with mostly Grenache in a mosaic of limestone and quartz soils in the Mont Redon lieu-dit. While some of the estate's Grenache are over 100 years of age, winemaker Daumen focuses his cuvees on specific terroirs rather than the age of the vines, the Les Hauts Lieux cuvee a field blend of hand harvested grapes grown at the highest elevation, blended together parcel by parcel from vines averaging 70 years of age. Employing what he calls "severe" selection while dramatically limiting yields, Daumen co-fermented the blended grapes with natural yeasts in cement tanks, then aged the 2020 Les Hauts Lieux CDP in large oak foudres for 18 months, bottling without fining or filtering with additional time in the cellar to yield rich concentration and superb depth.
Consistently garnering critical praise including a spot on the Wine Spectator's Top 100 of 2020, the Wine Advocate declared, "Jean-Paul Daumen continues to fashion some of the top wines of the vintage, in just about every vintage" - the elegant 97 pt. 2020 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Les Hauts Lieux offering an outstanding opportunity for collectors and fans of the finest Chateauneuf du Pape rouge to stock the cellar with this meticulously crafted, hard to acquire gem at an unheard of price.
Leading off the three Châteauneuf du Pape releases, the 2020 Châteauneuf du Pape Les Trois Sources comes from three different terroirs located in the northern part of the appellation, just across the street from the domaine. Roasted Provençal garrigue, black licorice, black raspberries, Asian spices, and a hint of cassis all define the bouquet, and it hits the palate with a layered, medium to full-bodied profile that has silky tannins and no hard edges. It's much more up-front and approachable than the more structured Les Hauts-Lieux and is going to drink fabulously well over the coming 15+ years.
96 points, Jeb Dunnuck (Nov 2022)
Dark in colour. Really quite closed on the nose, and tightly wound on the palate; there's real concentration here, and a mass of ripe tannin. Dark in fruit, it has a slight coolness at its heart, savoury with a long finish. Will be excellent in time, as it has balance, freshness, intensity and concentration, and a load of tannin. It's offering limited pleasure in its current form, but will be excellent when it's ready. From the northern edge of the appellation, aged in foudres for 12 months.
96 points, Matt Walls, Decanter (Nov 2024)
The 2020 Les Trois Sources is a beautifully ripe and pure expression of the vintage, revealing a dense, somber bouquet of mocha, iris, flowers, dark wild berries and subtle garrigue notes. Medium to full-bodied, dense and deep, it is structured around a delicate, fleshy core of fruit, supported by velvety tannins. The mid-palate is elegantly tense and precise, leading to a long, spicy finish with hints of lead pencil. It has the structure to age very nicely for two decades or more.
94 points, Yohan Castaing, Wine Advocate (Oct 2024)
Lovely floral and incense perfume give this a high-toned liveliness despite its full profile. Mocha, balsamic and lavender notes detail the fluid, streamlined palate, with hints of smoked meat and apple wood. Savory acidity powers through, bringing lift to the well-structured finish, marked by graphite intensity that builds. Settling nicely into itself with a few years in bottle, this will only improve with more. Grenache, Syrah, Cinsaut, Mourvèdre and Counoise.
94 points, Kristen Bieler, Wine Spectator (Mar 2025)
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