Representing the upper echelon in the Bordeaux hierarchy, these top scoring vintages from two iconic First Growth estates are guaranteed not to disappoint, whether it's the "complexity, finesse and longevity" of Chateau Lafite Rothschild according to Inside Bordeaux's Jane Anson or the signature "explosive depth" and "breathtaking purity of flavor" of Chateau Haut-Brion according to Vinous critic Antonio Galloni, another terrific opportunity to fill in the cellar with 100 pt. gems or treat yourself to the one of a kind pleasures that only First Growth Bordeaux can deliver in every vintage at best on the market pricing.
Spanning 112 hectares as the largest holding among the First Growths, the vineyards of Chateau Lafite Rothschild are located on rolling slopes of gravel up to ten meters deep in Pauillac, planted mostly to Cabernet Sauvignon with less than half of the total production making the final cut and aged for 18-20 months in new French oak barrels made at the estate's onsite cooperage.Exhibiting Lafite's "undeniable class and charm" according to Jeb Dunnuck, these top scoring selections range from the refined 100 pt. 2015 Chateau Lafite Rothschild that's just entering its realm of approachability, described by Inside Bordeaux's Jane Anson as "a truly classic Lafite" that's "understated and lyrical" to the magnificent triple 100 pt. 2020 Chateau Lafite Rothschild promising to "hit its 100th birthday in fine form" according to Jeb Dunnuck, every vintage revealing intensely aromatic, concentrated dark fruit with textbook graphite notes and layered silky tannins promising decades of longevity. Set among the contemporary suburbs of the city of Bordeaux, Chateau Haut-Brion's vineyards for the red Grand Vin span 50 hectares in Pessac-Leognan, planted almost evenly with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with small parcels of Cab Franc and Petit Verdot in a complex terroir ranging from limestone to sand to 18-meter-deep gravels interspersed with deep clay, the Grand Vin aged in mostly new French oak barrels for 22 months. With every vintage boasting its legendary ability to age, these thrilling selections range from the plush 100 pt. 2009 Chateau Haut-Brion offering the estate's signature ripe, opulent fruit elegantly balancing massive tannins to the 100 pt. 2020 Chateau Haut-Brion declared "a legend in the making" by Jeb Dunnuck and "ready to shine as the centerpiece of your collection for the next 40+ years" according to Inside Bordeaux's Jane Anson.
A treasure trove of exceptional First Growths that will make it hard to choose, these top scoring blends from Chateau Lafite Rothschild and Chateau Haut-Brion range fromsome with over a decade of cellaring to more recent vintages requiring patient cellaring, all promising a thrilling evolution for decades to come and delivered in perfect provenance at best on the market pricing.
I finished my trip through Bordeaux with the 2020 Château Haut-Brion, and it was certainly a fitting cap to the trip. Revealing a deep ruby/plum hue, the 2020 exhibits extraordinary aromatics of ripe black fruits, scorched earth, cold fireplace, and acacia flowers. An absolute blockbuster on the palate, this structured, full-bodied, massively concentrated Pessac builds incrementally, with ultra-fine tannins, a deep, layered mid-palate, and a great, great finish. Richer and more concentrated than both the 2018 and 2019 (there are some similarities to 2010), this is a legend in the making. The blend is 42.8% Merlot, 39.7% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the balance Cabernet Franc, all of which will spend 15-18 months in 77% new French oak. Hide bottles for a decade, and it should evolve for 50-75 years.
100 points, Jeb Dunnuck (Mar 2023)
This is a superb Haut-Brion with incredible tannins that are wonderfully fine-grained. It’s really powerful. This is very primary with so much grape-generated tannin structure. Very, very long, going on for minutes. Seductive and friendly at the start and then takes you on at the finish with so much structure. Wine of the vintage?
100 points, James Suckling (Jun 2021)
The 2020 Haut Brion is a blend of 42.8% Merlot, 39.7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17.5% Cabernet Franc, with a pH of 3.78. Deep garnet-purple in color, it opens with profound blackcurrant cordial, baked plums, and boysenberry preserves notes, leading to an undercurrent of graphite, iron ore, black truffles, and wood smoke, plus a hint of cardamom. The full-bodied palate is tightly knit with black fruit and mineral layers, supported by a rock-solid backbone of grainy tannins and seamless acidity, finishing long and savory.
99 points, Lisa Perrotti-Brown, Wine Independent (Mar 2023)
The 2020 Haut-Brion is more aromatically demonstrative than La Mission Haut-Brion, bursting with aromas of blackberries and raspberries mingled with licorice, cigar wrapper, pencil shavings and nicely integrated new oak. Full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it's rich and layered, with an enveloping core of fruit that's girdled by plenty of sweet, powdery tannin. Despite checking in at a similarly lofty alcoholic degree to the 2019, its more granular tannic profile tempers the vintage's sweetness of fruit and lends the wine a more classically proportioned, and more classically structured, profile.
99 points, William Kelley, Wine Advocate (Apr 2023)
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