From one of the most undervalued AOC's in Southern France, legendary Saint Emilion winemaker Jean-Luc Thunevin and Roussillon-born grower Jean-Roger Calvet have crafted a selection of powerful blends from old vine fruit that Southern Rhone fans won't want to miss, an exciting range of delicious, age worthy reds among the Languedoc's finest values at affordable pricing perfect for mixing a case.
Hiking in the French Pyrenees past the magnificent centuries' old fortresses perched above the Roussillon plain, a chance meeting two decades ago along the Route de Cathar trail became a windfall for wine lovers, resulting in a partnership between local Cotes du Roussillon grower Jean-Roger Calvet and Bordeaux vigneron Jean-Luc Thunevin of Chateau Valandraud, the superstar Saint Emilion winemaker called "a major force in the global wine world" by the Wine Enthusiast's Roger Voss. Intrigued by the magnificent black schist soils and rugged terroir around the Roussillon village of Maury, Thunevin invested in a small parcel of vines to supplement Jean-Roger's existing vineyards in the region, crafting their first vintage in a makeshift winery in 2001 and expanding the estate to 65 hectares to produce small amounts of terroir-focused wines from sustainably farmed Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah and Carignan. A blend of 60% Mourvedre and 40% Grenache from vines averaging 30 years of age, the entry level 93 pt. 2019 Thunevin-Calvet Cotes du Roussillon Villages l'Amourette was aged 16 months in concrete vats, its rich spiced and peppery fruit balancing earthy minerality and finishing long and fresh with smooth tannins built for years of enjoyment. A blend of mostly Grenache with about a third Syrah from vines ranging from 40 to more than 100 years old, the "formidable" 94 pt 2019 Thunevin-Calvet Cotes du Roussillon Villages Hugo is "a joy to drink" according to Jeb Dunnuck, offering bright dark fruit hinting of graphite and toasted spices while the rich and muscular 2019 95 pt. Thunevin-Calvet Cotes du Roussillon Villages Divaea has a "balanced, elegant mouthfeel, ripe tannins, and outstanding length," the blend of 90% Syrah and 10% Grenache sourced from vines averaging 40 years and aged in new French oak for 18 months. Crafted from 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah ranging from 80 to 120 years old, the powerful and elegant 97 pt. 2019 Thunevin-Calvet Cotes du Roussillon Villages Les Trois Marie is the estate's top cuvee aged for 18 months in large oak foudres, layering concentrated dark fruit with impeccably balanced, plush tannins and promising another decade of pleasurable drinking ahead.
From a region remaining decidedly off the beaten track much like the Route de Cathar trail itself, Antonio Galloni of Vinous called the best of the Cotes du Roussillon reds "the world's sexiest, most inexpensive wines," these top rated 2019 Thunevin-Calvet cuvees offering a terrific introduction for newbies to the Languedoc's most exceptional terroir-expressive reds as well as a great deal for savvy Southern Rhone fans seeking delicious, age worthy blends that deliver outstanding value.
Slightly tighter and more reticent, the 2019 Côtes Du Roussillon Villages Divae (90% Syrah and 10% Grenache) offers lots of black cherry and blueberry fruit-like characteristics as well as white pepper, sandalwood, and violets. Hitting the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, it has a balanced, elegant mouthfeel, ripe tannins, and outstanding length. It's another straight-up beautiful wine from this estate.
95 points, Jeb Dunnuck (May 2022)
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