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B-21 Top Recommendation
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Located on New Zealand’s South Island with vineyards sloping down to the pristine glacier-fed Lake Wanaka, the Rippon Winery in Central Otaga is crafting profound Pinot Noirs and an outstanding Riesling that rival the world’s best, earning top scores while remaining relatively unknown. Garnering 95 plus pts. from critics across the board, this selection of 2017 Pinot Noirs and the 2019 Riesling offers a deep dive into the spectacular wines of this under the radar producer, with best on the market pricing that makes it easy to take the plunge.
Winding along the Cardrona Crossing from Queensland to the town of Wanaka, the dramatic rock mountains rise up vertically around the crystalline turquoise waters of the lake framed with a cascading waterfall, reflecting the region’s glacial origins. With a family history in the region dating back to 1912, founder Rolfe Mills was serving in World War II when he recognized the similarity of the schist soil slopes of the Douro Valley in Portugal to those back in Wanaka and was among the first to plant vines in Central Otago, experimenting with different varietals over several decades. After extensive training in Burgundy, Rolfe’s son Nick took the reins in 2003 and has driven Rippon’s rise in quality for the last two decades with meticulous attention to detail including hand harvesting, fermenting with indigenous yeasts, gently crushing the grapes by foot in some years before pressing and aging, and bottling without filtering or fining. Sourced from 15 hectares of estate vineyards, organically and biodynamically dry-farmed with vines averaging around 15 years of age, James Suckling describes the 99 pt. 2017 Rippon Mature Vine Pinot Noir as “mouthwateringly intense” while the 95 pt. 2019 Rippon Mature Vine Riesling is “classically built” according to the Wine Advocate, “able to age for over a decade.” From distinct single vineyards offering two contrasting styles, the ”silky, smooth-toned” 96 pt. 2017 Emma’s Block is a “fleshier” finessed Pinot while the powerful 99 pt. 2017 Tinker’s Field Pinot boasts a “deep-reaching finish” that James Suckling summarizes simply as “stunning.”
Originally an area where the indigenous Maori came for a “place of rest,” the picturesque Rippon Winery produces cool climate wines that rank among the world’s best, able to transport the taster to this extraordinarily beautiful place of tranquility with the first sip “in typical Rippon style” according to the Wine Enthusiast, each selection embodying an alluring sense of place. |
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Bracing minerals, sliced pears and apples, wet stones and a gently floral edge here. So pure and fresh. The palate has a succulent, powerfully aligned drive of fresh apple and pear flavors with a mouthwateringly fresh stream of acidity. More citrusy at the finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.
95 points, James Suckling (Nov 2021)
Lighter and livelier than the 2018 (a warmer vintage, which weighed in a full percent higher in finished alcohol by volume), Rippon's 2019 Mature Vine Riesling strikes a winning balance between fresh green apple, tangy citrus and spring-like florals. It's medium-bodied (12% alcohol) and almost dry, with great concentration and length. Classically built, it should age well for over a decade.
94+ points, Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate (Mar 2020)
Like many wines made by Nick Mills at Rippon, this needs to time to reveal its true character. This is an attractive Riesling with silken texture, but it is a quiet wine that requires exploration. Expect subtle yet stimulating floral aromas, and apple and lemon peel allied with brioche-like notes from time on lees playing a supporting role. New Zealand Riesling can be austere due to its acidity, but Mills has found a happy medium between acidity and sweetness, leaving a dry, clean, balanced finish.
93 points, Rebecca Gibb, Vinous (Nov 2020)
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