Portuguese wine is so much more than port or even the dry wines of Douro. The country is nearly covered by designated wine regions, and two of the most dynamic and promising for adventurous wine lovers are the centrally located Bairrada and the southern region of Alentejo.
Alentejo is still relatively unknown in wider wine circles, but the region's benchmark producers, such as Susana Esteban and Luis Louro's Monte Branco, are upping their game in a big way, producing some truly noteworthy wines that are among the more intriguing discoveries in the Old World, and they're now getting serious recognition in the U.S. press from the like of Wine Advocate.
Bairrada's relatively gently rolling terrain and coastal climate make it an ideal habitat for the native Baga varietal, the wines of which are notoriously structured and long-lived. The visionary pioneer that has come to define the Bairrada region, Luis Pato has been an avant garde genius pushing the envelope for nearly five decades now, and this latest set of releases shows that he's not content to rest on his laurels, even as his career can by considered an unqualified success many times over.
The Vinhas Velhas Tinto and Branco are two of the most age-worthy wines in their price tier, each with sterling press from Wine Advocate. Of the former, Luis Gutierrez writes, "It's really fine-boned and elegant, with superb balance, depth and complexity ... This is one to buy by the case and enjoy over the next decade... or two!" The WA93+ Branco is likewise a firm, mineral-driven specimen that is all about long-term development. Unique to almost any winery, you can also find perfect-provenance library gems like the 93-point 2009 Vinha Barrio or the 1990 Vinhas Velhas Branco. That's right, it's a current release direct from the winery's cellar. In a recent 95-point review,Wine Advocate's Luis Gutierrez noted, "This is a monumental white close to 35 years of age! And it should still continue for a few more years." Needless to say, you're in for an experience like no other with this one.
When exploring unfamiliar regions like these, it's often a daunting task to decipher which wines are worth the pursuit, so we've done the hard work and curated this list of proven winners to get you off on the right foot in your journey of discovery through Portugal's hidden treasures.
The 2019 Monte Branco Adega do Monte Branco is an 80/20 blend of Alicante Bouschet and Aragonez aged for 16 months in 85% new French oak. It comes in at 14.2% alcohol. A bit tight around the edges, this still caresses the palate with velvety texture. The tannins are not hard, but there are some, so this remains a little unevolved on all fronts. Yet, at the same time it is beginning to show more proof of how fine it might become if you're a little more patient. It's hardly unapproachable today, but it will certainly be better in 2025 or so. Maybe at that point we'll have a better idea of where the ceiling is here. It is clearly on the upswing, refined, elegant and precise with expressive fruit.
94 points, Mark Squires, Wine Advocate (Jun 2023)
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