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B-21 Top Recommendation
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Located just south of Bolgheri – home to Ornellaia, Sassicaia, Solaia, and other world-famous Super Tuscan estates – Maremma has long been a hot bed of noble winemaking. Sharing nearly identical conditions with Bolgheri – vineyard altitudes, proximity to the Tyrrhenian Sea, diurnal temperature shifts – the region has attracted serious investors and winemakers over the last few decades; perhaps none more famous than Elisabetta Geppetti. Named for the hills which flank the original 15 acres of vineyards she purchased in the 1980s, her estate of Le Pupille was an overnight sensation.
Her flagship wine, Saffredi – named in honor of her mentor and Father-in-law, Fredi – was conceived by Elisabetta while still in her twenties. She purchased the estate and its Cabernet vines from Fredi – the original owner – and began working with Italy's most celebrated oenologist, Giacomo Tachis, to fulfil her dream. Releasing her first vintage (the 1987) in 1990, Saffredi skyrocketed to success, attracting associate winemakers the likes of Christian Sommer (Chateau Latour) and Luca D'Attoma (who assisted Elisabetta in achieving the 100 point club). Saffredi is a blend of Cab, Merlot, Petit Verdot and even Syrah in certain vintages, and unquestionably one of the world's great cult wines.
As if Saffredi was not enough for Elisabetta, she began to focus on the exceptional quality of the Sangiovese from the Valente vineyard. Using much larger barrels and eliminating Merlot from the blend, the style emphasizes nuance and finesse of Sangiovese. A serious core, this sangiovese challenges all the wines of Tuscany. The 2019 Poggio Valente is her finest yet!
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This wine always stands out in my mind, and it's worth dedicating a few words as to why. Poggio Valente offers us a rare opportunity to taste Sangiovese made according to the highest standards but from a territory—on the Tuscan Coast—that does not share a big legacy with monovarietal Sangiovese reds. The Fattoria le Pupille 2019 Poggio Valente was born in a happy vintage with a cool spring and a growing season that had plenty of underground water reserves to keep the vines hydrated well until the end of August. This is a full and generous wine with dark cherry and wild plum aromas that segue to tar, licorice and crushed slate. My sample (tasted a few weeks after bottling) was a little shy initially, but it quickly blossomed in the glass.
95 points, Monica Larner, Wine Advocate (Oct 2021)
This is very dense and structured with stone and blackberry character. Full-bodied and intense with chewy tannins that frame the wine. Flavorful finish. Smoky and lightly bitter, in a good way. Pure sangiovese. This needs time to soften. Better after 2024.
95 points, James Suckling (Nov 2021)
The 2019 Poggio Valente is gorgeous. Bright and vibrant in the glass with terrific energy, the Poggio Valente is a fine example of the style favored here these days. Dark red/purplish fruit, rose petal, spice and orange zest complement a core of Sangiovese fruit. I especially like the vibrancy here. The 2019 is absolutely delicious. That's all there is to it.
93 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous (Jul 2022)
A red with intensity on a weightless frame, leaving plenty of room for cherry, blackberry, chocolate, nutmeg and white pepper flavors to shine. The tannins are present, yet uplifting rather than obtrusive. Sangiovese. Best from 2023 through 2032. 2,900 cases made, 400 cases imported.
93 points, Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator (Sep 2022)
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