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Nearly two decades ago, Master of Wine Remington Norman released his James Beard nominated book entitled "Rhone Renaissance." His bio on Jean-Paul Daumen – who took over for his father at Vieille Julienne in 1990 – placed this estate squarely on my to-do list. A first of several visits soon followed. Quality continues to soar.
Jean-Paul Daumen practices one of the most rigorous selection processes in the whole of Chateauneuf. His first experiences with older bottles of his father's wines clearly indicated that although his parcels were particularly well situated, vineyard work had previously lacked vigor. This would change immediately under Jean-Paul Daumen's watch. In particular he set about to restore the rightful luster to the estate's 15 acre parcel of (now) 100+ year old vines in "des Gres," that sector of the appellation which Jean-Paul describes as "the septentrional part of Chateauneuf." |