The 2014 Clos des Goisses, 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, is Extra Brut at 4.5 g/L dosage and was disgorged in March 2023. It needs a little coaxing to bring out delicate scents of wet pebbles, lime blossom, and green apples plus emerging wafts of Marcona almonds, yuzu, and baking bread. Light-bodied and very dry, the palate is super-fine and delicately crafted, with a lively backbone supporting the intense flavors, finishing long and minerally.
96 points, Lisa Perrotti-Brown, Wine Independent (Aug 2023)
The kind of dry that in Champagne puts the emphasis on all the right places - salt-scraping, pure citrus, quince, gooseberry and lemon grass, with chalky persistency, relaxing through the mid palate to show brioche, almonds, candied ginger, graphite, concentrated and scintillating, so good. Another cool vintage in Champagne that here puts the emphasis on finesse, but with higher yield than the 2013, all perfectly handled by the legendary 5ha of Clos des Goisses walled vineyard that is located on the slopes of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. Thierry Garnier cellar master. 60% aged in Burgundy barrels, 40% in stainless steel tanks, no malo, 4.5g/l dosage.
95 points, Jane Anson (Aug 2023)
The 2014 Clos des Goisses is a more subtle, less concentrated wine than either the energetic 2013 or the intense 2012. It shows the coolness of the summer with its bright, taut acids yet still offers up classic Goisses aromatics of dried pear, roasted apples and apricots in honey. There is a touch more floral delicacy and breezy lightness to it this year, a ‘purity’ that Charles Philipponnat partly attributes to the generosity of the vintage. Nevertheless it will do as Goisses does and build savour and depth as it ages. If not as structured or saturated as some, its cool-headedness seems to promise plenty in the cellar. 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, with 50% oak fermentation and no malolactic fermentation.
94 points, Georgia Hindle, Decanter (Sep 2023)
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