The 2004 Champagne Blanc de Blancs La Vigne d'Antan Brut Nature is 100% Chardonnay from ungrafted vines on sandy soils that face northwest. This is an exceptional wine. The nose is pretty and refined, with white flowers, marzipan, and lemon curd. It is supple, with a pillowy mousse, and has layers of complexity and depth, with custard, soft wet stone, and white peach. The palate is dry and certainly has mineral and energetic tension, but it feels balanced and not austere. Drink 2023-2043. Disgorged June of 2021.
96 points, Audrey Frick, Jeb Dunnuck (Nov 2022)
The 2004 La Vigne d'Antan Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs is 100% barrel-fermented Chardonnay from 50+-year-old, ungrafted vines in the "Les Sables" vineyard in Oeuilly (10,000 vines per hectare) that was pickled on October 2. This millésime was scheduled to be disgorged in autumn this year—after 12.5 years on the lees. My sample is an exclusive Brut Nature pre-disgorgement from July 2017 that I tasted in November 2017. This impressively fresh and complex single vineyard vintage fizz has a straw-yellow color and opens with a deep, pure, intense and mineral bouquet with flavors of chalk, iodine, smoke and oak, giving the perfectly ripe, rather tropical fruit an extra dimension. It is intense yet straight, pure, fresh and bone dry on the palate, with great finesse and a very good structure and mineral complexity. Provided with zero added sugar, the 2004 has enough roundness for another decade in the bottle. The wine did not undergo malolactic fermentation. This old vines Chardonnay should be perfect with many kinds of food, even lobster. However, its best position is after dinner since it cleans your palate and brings you back to life. This is a great and vitalizing Champagne!
95 points, Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate (Nov 2017)
The 2004 La Vigne d’Antan, 100% Chardonnay from ungrafted vines, emerges from a parcel near the winery. White flowers, mint, citrus and white pepper lend tremendous vibrancy to this nervy, sinewy Champagne. Bright saline accents that extend the chiseled finish beautifully. The 2004 is just exquisite. Disgorged: June 5, 2021.
95 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous (May 2022)
Aromas of dusty chalk, candied apple and lemon with hints of fresh ginger. Full-bodied with layers of fruit. Pie crust and nuts on the finish. Fascinating. From old, ungrafted chardonnay. Drink or hold.
95 points, James Suckling (Jun 2022)
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