To an even greater extent than its Rouchaux counterpart, Liger-Belair’s 2009 Moulin-a-Vent Vieilles Vignes has gained in bottle, taking on bittersweet floral notes and a game-like aspect whose conjunction puts me in mind of the Northern Rhone, while giving up none of the palate-staining intensity of ripe dark berries, toasted nuts, chocolate, and crushed stone on which I elaborated in my issue 190 barrel-tasting note. The strong sense of tart vivacity and invigorating salinity have not diminished in bottle either, and there is almost a tactile sense of crunching down on blackberry seeds in the course of this beauty’s long finish. The blending machinations employed here (described in issue 190) certainly succeeded! Expect 6-8 years of fascination, if not more. 93 points, The Wine Advocate issue # 196 (Aug 2011)
Vivid ruby. Deeply pitched black raspberry and cherry aromas are complemented by notes of mocha, musky herbs and anise. Powerful, palate-staining dark berry and bitter cherry flavors show a spicy quality and pick up sweetness with aeration. The finish repeats the cherry note and lingers with good intensity. I would not have picked this blind as Beaujolais. 88 Points, Stephen Tanzer's Int'l Cellar (2010)
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