Steinmetz and Hermann combined their harvest teams in order to pull out these grapes at what they deemed the optimum moment before botrytis could began causing problems and before the must weight could even climb past 80 Oechsle. Vinification and élevage, as with the corresponding 2016, took place in Hermann’s cellars. Ten grams of acidity are pitted against 50 grams of residual sugar. Zesty lime and piquantly seed-inflected pear are coolingly wreathed in basil and mint on both nose and palate. Alcoholic levity is accompanied by an underlying sense of density and polished. The long, luscious finish offers impressive transparency to smoky, alkaline and shimmeringly crystalline stony nuances along with a mouthwateringly savory evocation of oyster and clam juiciness. Here is a tribute both to this quartzite-rich site – the former Neuberg, high up in a side valley – and to tiny-berried, thick-skinned Riesling whose genetic diversity is traceable to more than a century of selection by the Böcking-Huesgen family.
93 points, David Schildknecht, Vinous (Apr 2020)