The 2017 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Podium wafts up a pretty bouquet of anise, yellow flowers, apple and pear, complicated by notes of wet stone and savory spice. It’s silky, almost creamy and deeply textural, with almondy richness offset by saline-minerality, young orchard fruits and a twang of zesty green citrus. While this doesn’t display the energy of better vintages, it manages to impress with its understated beauty and poise, tapering off to leave the palate cleansed and ready for another sip. The 2017 is a perfect candidate for drinking now, while waiting for the more structured vintages to mature.
89 points, Eric Guido, Vinous (Sep 2020)