For about a decade and half now, I've been carefully following the wines of Bruno Nada and his son, Danilo, at their family estate known as Fiorenzo Nada, based in the commune of Treiso, Barbaresco. Established in the 1950s by Bruno's father, Fiorenzo, back in those days Treiso was just a hamlet – not really even a village, more a place where a family was from, rather than a place you purposefully sought to stake your fortune – and Bruno inherited a small winery from his father. The family had always made wine here on the outskirts, in the hills of Treiso, selling it to local restaurants in large quantities.
In the 1960s, the family estate was split between Bruno's four sons, three of whom made a bit of wine for friends, selling the most coveted grapes to local negociants, one of whom wanted nothing to do with the peasant life of a farmer. The guy seeking his fame and fortune elsewhere, moving to the big city for the "razzle and dazzle of modernity" was Bruno. The easy life was calling him, and soon he was a professor – at the age of 22 – in Alba. Moving to Barolo a few years later, managing fine hotels, Bruno would find himself in the company of the region's most enlightened producers.
Hearing theories of terroir for the first time in his life, the philosophy of wine as a reflection of place, time and varietal and the polarizing concepts of low yields towards higher quality and better profits drove Bruno back to his father's farm. Over dinner that night, discussing these wild ideas of the youthful revolutionaries, all his father would reply with was, "Pruvuma" ("Let's give it a go"). That was 1982, and Bruno's star was about to rise.
Today, with his son at his side, and his father full of pride, Bruno is producing the finest set of Barbaresco wines ever fashioned in the commune of Treiso – now quite a fashionable commune in its own right – and is easily among the top 4 or 5 absolute best producers anywhere in the entire DOCG of Barbaresco.