From vines planted in 1951 by Dhondt's grandfather, the 2014 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Le Bateau Vieille Vigne derives from a chalky parcel that straddles a small valley, roughly two-thirds of it exposed south, the remaining one-third facing to the north. Exhibiting scents of Meyer lemon, lime zest, fresh peach, mint and pastry cream, it's full-bodied, concentrated and multidimensional, with a vinous profile but lovely cut and chalky phenolic grip to balance its breadth and amplitude. It was disgorged in October 2018 with 1.8 grams per liter dosage. Dhondt tells me that the old massal selection Chardonnay growing here produces small, golden grapes with ripe skins, contributing unusual dry extract to its wines.
96 points, William Kelley, Wine Advocate (Issue # 244 - Aug 2019)