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"Winemaker/director
Didier Seguier is obsessed with making classic, minerally
Chablis from clean fruit picked with healthy acidity levels.
Seguier gives the edge to the '06s for their greater purity
of aromas and flavors as well as showing the classic Chablis
with firm acidity and minerality."
- Steve Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, July/Aug
2007
Domaine
William Fevre
Chablis fans brace your selves for the 2006 vintage. My
early read on the promising 2006 vintage was last March at
Verget, whose wines have already arrived (as some of you
well know.) The village of Chablis has a wine festival each
November where most of the producers share their talents.
After my experience at Verget it was my duty to be there! I
tasted through virtually every wine breaking only for a
lunch of sidewalk served andouillette. William Fevre was a
stand out clearly making some of the best wines of Chablis.
 In
fact the wine director Didier Seguier claims the 2006 to be
Fevre's best yet; classic Chablis with the all that
nervoisty and minerality that makes Chablis unique. What
makes 2006 demand your attention further is the unfortunate
weather dealt the 2007 harvest. For the first time Chablis
was harvesting before the rest of Burgundy! A July heat wave
was followed by a cool August with hail and record rains.
Jean Marie Guffens, Verget's owner told me he will have no
Chablis from 2007. This unfortunate situation will just add
to the demand for 2006's.
- Bob Sprentall, B-21
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(from Vaillons and Châtains). An overtly spicy nose
that is a mix of floral, green fruit and sea breeze
merges into big, rich and intense flavors that are
not especially fine though there is admirable
concentration and dry extract. This is round and
attractive.
88-91 Points, Allen Meadows' Burghound,
Issue 28 (Oct. 2007)
2006 Chablis "Fourchaume" 1er Cru
59.99
(from Vaulorent). This wine is William Fevre, not
Domaine. A subtle trace of wood frames elegant and pure
of yellow and green fruit aromas nuanced by a touch of
quinine and white flower that complements well the big,
rich and full flavors that possess both power and real
size plus a long mineral-infused finish. 90-93
Points, Allen Meadows' Burghound, Issue 28 (Oct. 2007)
2006 Chablis "Fourchaume - Vignoble de Vaulorent" 1er
Cru
59.99
(from an impressive 3.63 ha parcel out of only 17 ha and
most of it is hard by Les Preuses. Séguier calls this
their "baby grand cru" as specific barrels are selected
for vine age, concentration and power). A strikingly
elegant and pure as white flower and green fruit notes
waft from the glass to reveal full, powerful and sappy
flavors that retain a fine sense of detail on the
penetrating finish that is seriously long. What I like
best about this wine though is the underlying sense of
harmony because there's size and energy here in spades
yet ultimately, it harnesses that to remain a wine of
finesse if not delicacy. Absolutely gorgeous and a grand
cru in all but name.
91-94 Points, Allen Meadows' Burghound, Issue 28
(Oct. 2007)
2006 Chablis Vaudesir - Grand Cru
89.99
(from two separate parcels of vines, the larger of
which is in the heart of the "amphitheater" from
which the finest examples of Vaudésir originate).
Perhaps the freshest of any of these grand crus to
this point, which is interesting as Vaudésir tends
to always be one of the very ripest of the GCs given
how the configuration of the vineyards collects
heat. While the nose is certainly ripe, it is also
airy and elegant with floral, spice and orchard
fruit aromas complementing the quinine and citrus
notes that can also be found on the powerful,
muscular and borderline robust flavors that somehow
manage to remain refined and deliver the
considerable dry extract with grace on the explosive
finish. This is generous on the mid-palate but it's
almost breathtaking as to how fast the finish
tightens up. Impressive.
92-94 Points, Allen Meadows' Burghound, Issue
28 (Oct. 2007)
2006 Chablis Les Preuses - Grand Cru
79.99
(from two parcels of vines that total 2.55 ha, or 22% of
the entire appellation). A touch of wood spice with
subtle anise, clove and saline notes add nuance to the
pretty and elegant mix of white and yellow fruit aromas
that introduce round and generous flavors that offer up
real volume and mid-palate density, all wrapped around a
firm acid spine on the refined, pure and explosive
finish. This is positively stunning, certainly in an
absolute sense but particularly so in the context of the
vintage. One to look for.
92-95 Points, Allen Meadows' Burghound, Issue 28
(Oct. 2007)
"...a blend
of 65% Garnacha, 20% Carinena, and the balance Syrah,
Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon, is aged in French oak
for 14 months. It has a glass-coating purple-hue with an
alluring bouquet of cedar, smoke, slate, blueberry, and
black cherry. Youthful and structured on the palate,
this potentially complex effort will profit from 5-7
years of additional cellaring. It will be at its best
from 2015 to 2030." 93
Points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate #175, (MAR 2008)
Pale color. Musky, minerally aromas of lemon, mint, raw
pineapple and quinine; very backward and very Chablis.
Silky on entry, then dense in the middle, with terrific
thrust and depth to its very dry but ripe flavors of
citrus peel, minerals and spices. Wonderfully
concentrated, solid, powerfully structured grand cru
with outstanding minerally persistence. Potentially the
best vintage yet for this bottling and one of the early
highlights of the vintage.
94-97 points, Stephen Tanzer's International
Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 07 |
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