This is gorgeous, with notes of ginger, orange, clementine, white peach and green fig all bouncing off one another, but working harmoniously through the richly detailed finish. A lingering green tea note hangs on for added length as this puts on weight with air. Drink now through 2025. 760 cases made. 96 points James Molesworth, May 31, 2011.
The Huet 2009 Vouvray Sec Le Haut-Lieu – harvested at the beginning of October – manages to remain dry tasting despite harboring ten grams of residual sugar, which represented the only means of keeping alcohol at bay. (The trio of 2009 sec bottlings doesn’t exceed 13.5%, which Pinguet says he considers the maximum acceptable for their genre.) Fresh lime, chalk dust, and salt spray in the nose promise a prominence of citrus and mineral elements uncommon for the vintage, a promise largely fulfilled on the palate and in a prolonged finish, albeit accompanied by a considerable sense of citrus pip and rind bitterness. The clay-rich, more water-retentive soil of this site (vis-a-vis Huet’s others) does not seem to have conduced to noticeably better acid retention – if anything to the contrary – despite the prominence of flavors associated with citrus. But there is a lovely sense of levity here that is very welcome for its vintage. This may well gain further complexity with 2-3 years in bottle, though I don’t perceive it as well-suited for extended cellaring. 90 Points, The Wine Advocate (Aug 2010)