The apparently irrepressible Jean-Marc Lafage has purchased an historic estate based in Maury, and in his first vintage – after practicing ruthless selection of material – he has rendered a phenomenal value 2006 Cotes du Roussillon Chimeres vinified in demi-muids from Grenache with 10% Carignan and (from high granite slopes in Saint Paul de Fenouillet) 30% Syrah. Plum preserves, lily, cocoa powder, white pepper and a whiff of smoke emanate from the glass. In the mouth, this displays creamy richness of texture uncannily combined with elegance and brightness, and an almost tactile sense of underlying stony and ore-like minerality (which is difficult to describe!). Nut paste, cocoa, fruit preserve, and wafting floral sweetness persist in the long finish, accompanied by low-toned meat and mineral suggestions. Enjoy this 2006 over the coming 3-4 years and possibly it will prove worth holding longer.
Only 1,200 cases were bottled, but the good news is that they came to the U.S., and that after Lafage has had more opportunity to administer tough love to the vines and renovate the facility, we can anticipate yet finer and more abundant wine from Chateau Saint-Roch in future years. Hurrah for this talented and visionary vintner!
92 Points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
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