A promising batch of Riesling originally intended to be this year’s unique non-auction “gold capsule” bottling ended up finding its way into the 2004 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese A.P. #12. The result is a wine exhibiting great richness of fruit, subtle notes of noble rot, and a combination of gripping flavor intensity with delicacy of touch that has been a hallmark of the better Prum Auslesen for decades. The wine’s intense aromas – still overlaid with considerable primary yeastiness – are of baked and fresh apple, honeysuckle, fresh orange, and vanilla. In the mouth, this is bracing and dripping with fresh fruit, yet subtly-tinged by honey and spice from botrytis. It is audaciously ripe, mouth-coating and golden-berried in fruit character, yet light and delicate to the touch, suggestively creamy and soothing, yet preserving an animating core of fresh fruit acidity. The long finish is similarly rich, honeyed and coating yet bracing and invigorating with its fresh fruit, fruit skin and wet stone elements. As is generally the case with Auslesen from this estate, how long you choose to cellar it will depend in large part on how much of its abundant fructose and overt sweetness you want to taste, but it will certainly mature impressively for more than a quarter century.
93 points - The Wine Advocate (February 2006)
This has a matchstick aroma from reduction, while the palate expresses peach, lime and mineral flavors. It has fine density and a keen-edged structure that keeps it detailed and crunchy. Long, mouthwatering finish. Best from 2009 through 2030. 1,200 cases made.
92 points - Wine Spectator (April 30, 2006)
Fine bouquet of ripe apple, vanilla and sweet herbs. The palate is rich, with a salty, resinous character complementing the undeniably sweet apricot fruit. Unctuous yet lively auslese with a long, complex finish. Needs time.
92 points - Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Jan/Feb 06) |